London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 23 – 19 September 2016
A Fisherman’s Gift on the Shores of Lake Balkhash
We woke to one of the most beautiful mornings we had experienced in Kazakhstan. The sky was crystal clear, the sun was shining, and for a change there was no sign of rain. After several days of dull weather, it was wonderful to see bright blue skies stretching endlessly across the horizon.
After breakfast, Team Kontiki set off towards Lake Balkhash, one of Kazakhstan’s most famous natural landmarks and one of the largest lakes in the world.
The journey itself was fascinating. As we travelled further south-east, the landscape gradually changed. The final hundred miles took us through semi-desert terrain where the scenery became increasingly barren and dramatic. The endless grasslands gave way to dry open plains, with little sign of settlements for long stretches.
We stopped at a roadside lay-by for a cup of tea and some light snacks while admiring the vast emptiness around us. It was one of those places where you could stand quietly and appreciate just how immense Central Asia really is.
Later in the day, Dayal took over the driving duties.
Suddenly, we noticed a police car approaching with flashing lights. Assuming it was heading somewhere else, we carried on our way. To our surprise, the police vehicle performed a U-turn and quickly caught up with us before signalling us to stop.
Our hearts sank slightly.
Dayal was invited into the police car while Ramesh and I waited patiently, wondering what had happened this time.
The officers informed him that he had been exceeding the speed limit.
What followed was a period of discussion, explanation, and some skilful negotiation. Fortunately, the matter was eventually resolved without too much drama, and before long Team Kontiki was back on the road once again.
As we drove away, everyone breathed a little easier and we continued towards our destination.
At around 3:30 pm, we finally arrived in Balkhash, situated on the shores of the vast lake that shares its name. Finding suitable accommodation proved more challenging than expected, and we spent almost ninety minutes exploring the area before eventually discovering a conveniently located hotel right beside the lake.
The location was perfect.
After a little negotiation, we rented a single hotel room while arranging for all three of us to use the hotel’s shower facilities. Dayal opted for the comfort of the hotel room, while Ramesh and I remained faithful to Kontiki and slept in the motorhome.
The deal became even better when we discovered what was included.
For approximately £10, we received a room, shower access, free electricity hookup for the motorhome, Wi-Fi, and even laundry facilities. It was excellent value and one of the best bargains of the trip so far.
To our surprise, the hotel television also offered several Hindi channels and Bollywood films. Once again, we were reminded of how popular Indian cinema is throughout Central Asia.
The hotel itself had a pleasant clubhouse complete with a bar, creating a relaxed atmosphere for travellers and locals alike.
Later in the afternoon, Ramesh decided to take a stroll along the shores of Lake Balkhash while the rest of us relaxed.
He returned carrying an unexpected prize.
A local fisherman had approached him and, after a friendly conversation, generously gifted him a freshly caught fish straight from the lake. It was a wonderful gesture and another example of the kindness we had encountered throughout our journey.
Dayal and Ramesh immediately set about cleaning and marinating the fish in preparation for tomorrow’s dinner.
With such a feast awaiting us, there was no need to cook that evening. We simply finished off the leftovers from the previous day’s meal and later enjoyed a few drinks in the clubhouse while reflecting on our travels.
As we sat there overlooking one of Kazakhstan’s great natural wonders, we couldn’t help feeling satisfied with how far we had come.
Kontiki was running beautifully, the gearbox problems were firmly behind us, and we had now travelled thousands of miles from Leicester.
There was also a little friendly competition taking place. We had learned that Team USA—Kunal and Devanshi from New York—were following a similar route to Mumbai, and at the moment Team Kontiki was running approximately one day ahead.
Not that it was a race, of course!
As darkness settled over Lake Balkhash, we retired for the night feeling grateful, relaxed, and excited about the road that still lay ahead.
Distance travelled: Approximately 240 miles (385 km)
Location: Lake Balkhash, Kazakhstan
Accommodation: Lakeside hotel with motorhome parking
Cost: Approximately £10 including room, showers, electricity hookup, Wi-Fi, and laundry
Highlight of the day: Reaching Lake Balkhash and receiving a freshly caught fish from a local fisherman
Dinner: Leftovers from the previous day
Evening entertainment: Drinks at the hotel clubhouse and Bollywood channels on television
Mood of the day: Relaxed, optimistic, and grateful
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki leaves the shores of Lake Balkhash behind and continues deeper into Kazakhstan, drawing ever closer to the Chinese border on our epic road journey from London to Mumbai.
