London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited

Day 32 – 28 September 2016

Becoming Chinese Drivers for a Day

After the long and exhausting border crossing yesterday, we were hoping for a quieter day.

How wrong we were!

China has very strict regulations regarding foreign vehicles, and before we could continue our journey, both our vehicles and drivers had to undergo a series of inspections and administrative procedures.

After breakfast, Team Kontiki, Team USA, and our guide Abby left the hotel at around 9:00 am and headed to the vehicle inspection centre.

What followed felt very much like putting our vehicles through a Chinese version of an MOT test.

The inspection was thorough.

For almost two hours, officials examined every aspect of our vehicles. We were instructed to display warning triangles and fire extinguishers in front of both vehicles while inspectors took photographs from every conceivable angle.

One official climbed inside Kontiki to check that we carried high-visibility jackets. Another opened the bonnet and carefully compared the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) stamped on the vehicle against the registration documents and permit paperwork.

Nothing was left to chance.

The Chinese authorities clearly wanted to ensure that every foreign vehicle entering the country met their requirements.

Once the vehicle inspections were completed, we drove approximately 10 kilometres to another government office where the next stage of the process awaited us.

Here, Abby once again proved invaluable.

While we sat patiently, she spent much of her time filling out forms, translating documents, answering questions, and guiding us through what would have been an impossible bureaucratic maze without her assistance.

The purpose of this visit was to obtain temporary Chinese driving licences.

Every foreign driver wishing to drive in China must obtain a temporary Chinese licence, regardless of how many years of driving experience they have elsewhere.

As part of the process, we were required to take a simple eyesight test.

From Team Kontiki, only Ramesh and I were eligible to apply. Unfortunately, Chinese regulations at the time did not permit drivers over the age of 70 to obtain temporary licences, which meant Dayal, despite his many years of driving experience, was not allowed to drive anywhere in China.

From Team USA, Kunal and Devanshi also completed the necessary paperwork and tests.

While we waited for our licences to be processed, two more officials arrived and once again checked and recorded the VIN numbers of both vehicles.

By now, we were beginning to lose count of how many times our documents and vehicle numbers had been examined!

Finally, at around 2:30 pm, Abby returned carrying a very important package.

Inside were our temporary Chinese driving licences and our official Chinese vehicle registration plates.

Although these were not physical number plates mounted on the vehicles, they were official temporary registration signs that had to be displayed prominently on the windscreen while travelling throughout China.

After two days of inspections, paperwork, customs procedures, vehicle checks, photographs, and licences, Team Kontiki and Team USA were now fully legal and authorised to drive in China.

It felt like a significant achievement.

By this stage, however, most of the day had disappeared.

Rather than begin a long drive late in the afternoon, we decided to return to our hotel and book another night’s stay.

After a couple of hours of well-earned rest, we headed out to buy groceries and replenish our supplies.

Back at the motorhome, normal life resumed.

Ramesh prepared a delicious vegetable curry while the rest of us relaxed and reflected on the day’s events. A few drinks accompanied dinner, and after the intensity of the previous two days, it felt good to simply unwind.

Later in the evening, Abby briefed us on the next stage of our journey.

Tomorrow, we would be leaving for Kuitun, beginning our drive deeper into China.

She also reminded us why she would remain with us throughout our time in the country. Foreign vehicles are required to travel with an authorised guide, making China one of the most expensive sections of the London-to-Mumbai route.

Fortunately, by sharing the guide costs with Team USA, the expense became much more manageable.

As we settled down for the night, our Chinese driving licences safely tucked away, there was a growing sense of excitement.

The paperwork was finally complete.

Tomorrow, the real China adventure would begin.

Location: Yining, China
Highlights: Vehicle inspections, temporary Chinese driving licences, and receiving official Chinese registration permits
Challenge of the day: Hours of inspections, paperwork, and administrative procedures
Dinner: Vegetable curry and drinks in Kontiki
Most memorable moment: Receiving our Chinese driving licences and becoming officially authorised to drive in China
Mood of the day: Relieved, accomplished, and excited to finally start exploring China

Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki leaves Yining behind and begins its long-awaited road journey through the vast landscapes of western China, accompanied by Team USA and our guide Abby on the next stage of our epic drive from London to Mumbai.

Raj Karadia (Team Kontiki)

A seasoned traveller since 1979.

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