London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 47 – 13 October 2016
The Giant Buddha and the Quest for Bhajias
As Team Kontiki reached Day 47 of our epic adventure, we took a moment to reflect on just how far we had come.
So far, we had driven almost 9,000 miles from London, crossing Europe, Russia, Kazakhstan, and much of China. Yet there were still around 6,000 miles remaining before we would finally reach our destination of Mumbai.
The road ahead would bring new challenges.
Before long, we would be leaving China and entering Myanmar (Burma). We had heard countless stories about rough roads, difficult driving conditions, and challenging border procedures. Compared with China’s magnificent highways, Myanmar promised to be a very different experience.
Needless to say, we were keeping our fingers crossed and hoping both Team Kontiki and our faithful old motorhome would continue to perform as brilliantly as they had so far.
One pleasant surprise this morning was the quality of the internet connection.
For the first time in many weeks, we found ourselves with excellent Wi-Fi. Naturally, we took full advantage of it, spending time speaking with family and friends back home. Hearing familiar voices from Leicester and beyond gave us a welcome boost and reminded us how many people were following our progress.
While the rest of us were catching up with loved ones, Ramesh headed out for a stroll around the local streets.
Little did we know he was about to achieve a mission that had begun thousands of miles earlier.
Ever since our time in Astana, Kazakhstan, Ramesh had been determined to find chickpea flour (besan) so that he could make proper Indian onion bhajias and potato pakodas.
The search had continued through Kazakhstan and across much of China without success.
Then, while wandering through a local market, he spotted a stall selling roasted chickpeas and lentils.
A light bulb immediately switched on.
Using a combination of hand gestures, smiles, and improvised sign language, he somehow managed to explain that he wanted the roasted chickpeas ground into flour.
To everyone’s amazement, it worked!
A short while later, Ramesh returned triumphantly carrying a bag of freshly milled chickpea flour.
The famous Team Kontiki bhajias were finally back on the menu.
The excitement generated by this simple bag of flour probably requires an Indian traveller to fully understand, but after weeks of searching, it felt like a major victory.
With that mission accomplished, it was time for the main event of the day.
Just a few kilometres from Leshan stands one of the most remarkable monuments in the world—the Leshan Giant Buddha.
Carved directly into a cliff face overlooking the confluence of three rivers, this colossal statue is approximately 71 metres high and 26 metres wide, making it the largest stone Buddha statue in the world.
Construction began during the Tang Dynasty in the 8th century and took almost 90 years to complete.
The monk who initiated the project hoped the Buddha’s presence would calm the dangerous river currents that had claimed many lives over the centuries.
Standing before it, we could hardly believe its scale.
Photographs simply do not do it justice.
The Buddha’s head alone is enormous, while its giant feet are large enough to accommodate dozens of visitors at the same time.
To fully appreciate the monument, we followed the steep pathway carved into the cliffside and slowly descended towards the base of the statue.
The crowds were substantial, and it took us nearly three and a half hours to explore the entire site.
Every turn revealed a new perspective and another opportunity for photographs.
Looking up from the foot of the statue was particularly impressive. The Buddha appeared to rise directly out of the mountain, gazing serenely over the rivers below.
It was undoubtedly one of the most memorable sights we had encountered anywhere in China.
By late afternoon, it was time to move on.
At around 4:45 pm, Team Kontiki left Leshan and continued south towards Xichang, our next overnight stop.
As Kontiki rolled back onto the highway, we reflected on another fascinating day.
We had spoken with family, achieved Ramesh’s long-running chickpea flour mission, visited one of China’s most extraordinary landmarks, and moved another step closer to India.
Not a bad day at all.
Distance covered so far: Approximately 9,000 miles from London
Distance remaining to Mumbai: Approximately 6,000 miles
Location: Leshan, Sichuan Province, China
Highlights: Visiting the Giant Buddha and finally finding chickpea flour after weeks of searching
Most memorable moment: Standing at the foot of the 71-metre-high Leshan Giant Buddha
Special achievement: Ramesh’s successful quest for besan to make onion bhajias and pakodas
Next destination: Xichang, China
Mood of the day: Reflective, excited, and increasingly aware that the adventure was entering a new and more challenging phase
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues through the mountains of southern China, edging ever closer to the Myanmar border and the next chapter of our extraordinary London-to-Mumbai road journey.
