London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 48 – 14 October 2016
Pakodas at Last in Dali
Our day actually began the previous evening when Team Kontiki finally arrived in Xichang at around 9:00 pm after a long drive through the mountains of southern China.
Waiting for us was another pleasant surprise.
Our guide Casion kindly treated the entire group to a delicious Chinese barbecue dinner accompanied by a few drinks. After a long day on the road, the meal was greatly appreciated and provided a wonderful opportunity for everyone to relax and unwind.
As we sat together enjoying the food, it was hard to believe how far we had already travelled. Every day seemed to bring new friendships, new experiences, and another fascinating corner of China to explore.
This morning, however, we woke to more grey skies.
We had not seen much sunshine for several days, and once again the weather was dull, overcast, and rather chilly.
After breakfast, Team Kontiki left Xichang at around 9:30 am, heading south towards Dali, approximately 580 kilometres away.
The roads remained excellent and made the journey relatively easy despite the distance.
Throughout the day, we passed countless roadside markets overflowing with fresh produce. Fruit and vegetables seemed to be sold everywhere. Small stalls lined many of the roads, displaying colourful piles of oranges, apples, grapes, melons, peppers, cabbages, and countless other local products.
China’s agricultural abundance was impossible to miss.
We also continued to notice the huge number of scooters and electric bikes. In towns and cities alike, they appeared to be one of the most popular forms of transport. Quiet, economical, and practical, they seemed perfectly suited to daily life.
The scenery gradually changed as we travelled further south.
Mountain landscapes gave way to fertile valleys, and the architecture and atmosphere began to feel subtly different from the regions we had visited earlier. We were steadily moving closer to China’s border with Myanmar, and there was a growing sense that another major chapter of our journey was approaching.
After a full day on the road, we finally arrived in Dali late in the evening.
Dali immediately felt different.
The area was lively and bustling, with narrow streets packed with people, shops, restaurants, and market stalls. There was an energy and charm about the place that made it instantly appealing.
After checking into a hostel for the night, we decided to head out for a walk and soak up the atmosphere.
The narrow streets were full of local residents and visitors enjoying the evening. Colourful lanterns illuminated the old streets, and there was plenty of activity wherever we looked.
It was a pleasant way to stretch our legs after another long day in Kontiki.
Back at the hostel, conversation soon turned to a subject that had become something of an obsession for Team Kontiki.
Chickpea flour.
The hostel staff listened with amusement as we explained how Ramesh had spent weeks searching for chickpea flour across Kazakhstan and China so that he could make proper Indian onion bhajias and potato pakodas.
When we told them he had finally succeeded in obtaining some, they were eager to see what all the excitement was about.
That was all the encouragement Chef Ramesh needed.
Soon the kitchen area came alive with activity.
Onions were sliced, potatoes prepared, spices mixed, and the long-awaited chickpea batter carefully made. Before long, the unmistakable aroma of freshly fried pakodas drifted through the hostel.
The reaction was immediate.
Everyone wanted to know what smelled so good.
Alongside the pakodas, Ramesh prepared a full meal for the group, and before long guests and staff alike were enjoying a taste of India in the heart of southern China.
The onion bhajias and potato pakodas were an instant success.
After weeks of searching for ingredients, it was immensely satisfying to finally share one of our favourite snacks with our new Chinese friends.
The smiles on their faces said it all.
As the evening drew to a close, Team Kontiki reflected on another memorable day.
We had travelled hundreds of kilometres, explored a fascinating new town, and finally completed Ramesh’s culinary mission.
Not every travel memory comes from famous landmarks.
Sometimes it comes from sharing simple homemade food with new friends thousands of miles from home.
Distance travelled: Approximately 580 km (360 miles)
Route: Xichang to Dali, China
Weather: Cool, cloudy, and overcast
Highlights: Exploring the lively streets of Dali and finally making onion bhajias and potato pakodas
Most memorable moment: Sharing freshly made pakodas with the hostel staff and guests
Dinner: Home-cooked Indian meal prepared by Chef Ramesh
Location: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
Mood of the day: Relaxed, sociable, and delighted that the great chickpea flour quest had finally reached a happy ending
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki explores more of beautiful Yunnan Province while continuing our epic journey towards Myanmar and the next exciting stage of our London-to-Mumbai road adventure.
