London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 51 – 17 October 2016
Farewell China, Welcome to Myanmar
Today marked the beginning of another major chapter in our epic journey.
After three unforgettable weeks in China, it was finally time to say goodbye and cross into Myanmar (Burma).
We left our hotel in Ruili at around 8:30 am after breakfast and arrived at the border approximately half an hour later. Waiting with us was Abby, our Chinese guide, who had looked after Team Kontiki and Team USA throughout our travels across China.
Over the previous twenty days, Abby had become much more than just a guide. She had helped us navigate complicated bureaucracy, translated countless conversations, organised accommodation, solved problems, and shared many memorable experiences with us.
When the time came to say goodbye, it was surprisingly emotional.
As a token of our appreciation, Team Kontiki presented Abby with a tip of £140. It was a small gesture compared to everything she had done for us.
There were hugs, handshakes, photographs, and even a few tears.
After travelling together for so long, saying farewell felt like leaving behind a good friend.
Eventually, we completed the Chinese exit formalities, which took around an hour, and crossed into Myanmar.
Waiting for us on the other side was our new Burmese guide, who would accompany us across the country.
Unfortunately, the day was only just beginning.
One member of Team USA was travelling on an Indian passport, which resulted in additional immigration procedures. What should have been a relatively straightforward border crossing turned into a lengthy wait.
Hours passed.
By the time all the paperwork, immigration checks, and vehicle clearances had been completed, nearly six hours had gone by.
After finally being granted entry into Myanmar, we drove a short distance to the customs checkpoint where our vehicles were inspected and cleared. Thankfully, this process was much quicker.
And then, for the first time, we found ourselves officially driving in Myanmar.
The difference was immediately noticeable.
After the modern highways, gleaming cities, and impressive infrastructure of China, Myanmar felt entirely different.
In many ways, it reminded us of India.
The architecture, roadside shops, people, traffic, and overall atmosphere felt much more familiar to us. It was almost as though we had already moved a little closer to home.
The plan was to drive approximately 825 miles across Myanmar before reaching the Indian border.
What we didn’t realise was just how challenging those miles would be.
Soon after joining the main route, the heavens opened.
Heavy rain began to fall, quickly turning the roads into a muddy mess.
To our surprise, many sections of what was supposed to be the main highway were little more than dirt tracks. There was no tarmac, only rough, muddy roads scarred with deep potholes and ruts.
Driving conditions deteriorated rapidly.
The rain made visibility poor, the mud made the surface slippery, and every pothole seemed large enough to swallow a wheel.
Compared to China’s magnificent roads, this was a completely different experience.
As daylight faded, conditions became even more difficult.
We were following our guide’s vehicle through the darkness when suddenly everything came to a halt.
Our guide’s car had broken down.
There we were, somewhere on a muddy road in rural Myanmar, with darkness closing in and rain still falling.
Fortunately, our guide remained calm.
After assessing the situation, he decided to leave his vehicle by the roadside and continue the journey with us in Kontiki.
It was another reminder that overland travel rarely goes exactly according to plan.
With our guide now riding in the motorhome, we continued cautiously through the darkness.
Eventually, at around 8:45 pm, we reached the town of Lashio, exhausted after what had been a very long and challenging day.
We checked into a hotel and headed to the restaurant on the sixth floor, hoping for a decent meal.
Unfortunately, nothing on the menu really appealed to us.
Sometimes, after a long day, all you want is something familiar.
So we returned to Kontiki and did what Team Kontiki does best.
Out came the frying pan.
A few eggs were quickly fried, and within minutes we were enjoying a simple but satisfying meal in the comfort of our motorhome.
After the stress of border crossings, immigration delays, muddy roads, torrential rain, and vehicle breakdowns, those eggs tasted surprisingly good.
As we settled down for the night, one thing was already clear.
Myanmar was going to be a very different adventure from China.
And somehow, that made it even more exciting.
Distance travelled: Approximately 120 miles (190 km) inside Myanmar
Route: Ruili (China) – Muse Border Crossing – Lashio, Myanmar
Weather: Heavy rain throughout much of the day
Highlights: Crossing into Myanmar and beginning a completely new chapter of the journey
Most memorable moment: Emotional farewell to Abby at the Chinese border
Challenge of the day: Six-hour immigration delay and driving muddy roads in torrential rain
Dinner: Fried eggs cooked in Kontiki after rejecting the hotel menu
Mood of the day: Emotional, exhausted, and excited for the adventures ahead
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues through the challenging roads of Myanmar, discovering a country that feels far closer to India than China ever did, on our epic road journey from London to Mumbai.
