London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 59 – 25 October 2016
Across Assam, Currency Troubles and the Mighty Brahmaputra
After another peaceful night’s rest in Nagaon, Team Kontiki was up early and ready for the road.
Before leaving town, however, we made one important stop.
We went to say goodbye and thank our friend Gurpreet Sehmi, whose assistance over the past couple of days had been invaluable. From arranging repairs to helping source parts and ensuring Kontiki was roadworthy once again, he had gone out of his way to support us.
Travelling overland teaches you that good friends can often be found in unexpected places, and Gurpreet was certainly one of them.
After expressing our gratitude, we finally left at around 8:00 am, heading towards Guwahati, approximately 100 kilometres away.
The weather was perfect for travelling—bright sunshine, clear skies, and pleasantly warm temperatures.
As we drove through Assam, the landscape became greener and more fertile. Vast stretches of paddy fields lined the road, shimmering in the sunlight. Rice is the staple food of this region, and judging by the endless fields we passed, it was easy to see why.
The scenery felt calm and peaceful, a welcome contrast to the mountainous roads we had endured over the previous week.
By late morning, we arrived in Guwahati, the largest city in Assam and the gateway to India’s North-East.
Unfortunately, we had a rather urgent problem to solve.
Between the three of us, we had only about ₹1,000 left.
After weeks of travelling through remote regions, fuel stops, hotels, repairs, and unexpected expenses, our cash reserves had dwindled alarmingly.
Finding a bank became our top priority.
When we finally located one, a new challenge emerged.
A policeman standing outside refused to allow us to park Kontiki nearby.
After a lengthy conversation and a few explanations about our journey, he eventually softened and agreed to let us stop.
However, he had one small request.
He wanted a souvenir.
Fortunately, Team Kontiki was well prepared for such situations.
We handed him a couple of British coins—a 50 pence piece and a 10 pence piece—which he accepted with great enthusiasm.
Everyone was happy.
With the parking problem solved, we were able to visit the bank and exchange enough money to keep us going for the next few days.
Crisis averted.
The next challenge was one that had been frustrating us ever since entering India.
Motor insurance.
When we crossed the border at Moreh, we had tried repeatedly to arrange insurance for the motorhome but without success.
Surely a major city like Guwahati would solve the problem?
Unfortunately not.
For several hours we travelled from office to office, making enquiries, filling forms, explaining our unusual circumstances, and trying every possible avenue.
Yet despite our efforts, nobody seemed able to help.
Eventually, we accepted defeat and decided to continue the journey while continuing the search elsewhere.
By now, it was approaching 5:00 pm, and we still had some distance to cover.
Leaving Guwahati behind, we headed west towards Pathsala.
One of the highlights of the afternoon was crossing the mighty Brahmaputra River, one of Asia’s great rivers and among the widest rivers in the world. Flowing from Tibet through India and Bangladesh before reaching the Bay of Bengal, the Brahmaputra is central to life in Assam.
Standing on the bridge and looking across its vast expanse was an impressive sight.
As evening approached, however, the challenges of Indian driving returned.
Driving after dark in India is rarely relaxing.
Many vehicles insist on using full-beam headlights, regardless of oncoming traffic. Road markings are often poor, lighting is limited, and pedestrians, bicycles, animals, and slow-moving vehicles can appear without warning.
The combination demands complete concentration.
After a long day that had included banking problems, insurance frustrations, city traffic, and several hours of night driving, we finally reached Pathsala late in the evening.
Tired but satisfied with our progress, we checked into a hotel and settled down for the night.
The day’s achievements might not have been dramatic, but they were important.
We had replenished our funds, crossed one of India’s great rivers, and moved another step closer to Mumbai.
Every mile now felt like a mile towards home.
Distance travelled: Approximately 160 km (100 miles)
Route: Nagaon – Guwahati – Pathsala, Assam
Weather: Bright, sunny, and very warm
Highlights: Crossing the mighty Brahmaputra River and exploring Guwahati
Most memorable moment: Trading British coins for parking privileges with a local policeman
Challenge of the day: Finding cash and attempting to arrange insurance for Kontiki
Special thanks: Gurpreet Sehmi for helping us get back on the road
Accommodation: Hotel in Pathsala, Assam
Mood of the day: Productive, determined, and steadily making progress towards Mumbai
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues westward through India, leaving Assam behind and carrying on towards the final stages of our extraordinary London-to-Mumbai road adventure.
