London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited

Day 68 – 3 November 2016

Along India’s East Coast Towards Vizag

We woke up to another beautiful morning on the road.

With Dayal now safely on his way home, Team Kontiki had settled into life as a two-man crew. The routine was slightly different, but the adventure continued.

As always, Chef Ramesh was first into the kitchen.

This morning’s breakfast was a proper feast by motorhome standards—fried eggs, baked beans, fried toast, and steaming hot masala tea. After weeks of travelling through different countries and eating all sorts of food, a familiar breakfast like this was always welcome.

Fed and refreshed, we set off towards Visakhapatnam, better known locally as Vizag, bypassing Bhubaneswar on our way south.

The weather was excellent, with clear skies and warm sunshine, and perhaps most importantly, the roads were steadily improving.

After the punishment Kontiki had endured in Myanmar, North-East India, and parts of West Bengal, every good stretch of road felt like a luxury.

We still had a long day ahead, however, so at around lunchtime we stopped at a roadside dhaba.

For those unfamiliar with India, dhabas are simple roadside eateries found throughout the country. They may not offer luxury surroundings, but they often serve some of the freshest and tastiest food available.

Truck drivers, families, and travellers alike rely on them.

We enjoyed a quick but satisfying meal before continuing southwards.

During the drive, we found ourselves laughing about one unexpected consequence of Dayal’s departure.

For most of the journey, Dayal had claimed the front passenger seat whenever he was not driving. As a result, I often found myself sitting in the back of the motorhome.

Now, for the first time in over two months, I had unrestricted access to the front seat.

It may seem like a small thing, but on a long overland expedition, little comforts become surprisingly important!

As the miles rolled by, we reflected on just how many different regions we had travelled through in recent days.

Only yesterday we had been driving through West Bengal.

Today we were crossing Odisha.

Tomorrow we expected to enter Andhra Pradesh.

One of the joys of travelling by road is watching the gradual changes in landscape, language, food, architecture, and culture as you move from one region to another.

By around 6:00 pm, darkness was beginning to fall.

Rather than continuing into the night, we decided to stop at the coastal town of Gopalpur.

There, we found a modest hotel situated right on the seafront.

For Rs. 1,350, we secured a clean, air-conditioned room for the night. It was certainly not luxurious and unfortunately lacked Wi-Fi, but what it lacked in facilities it more than compensated for with its location.

From our room we could see the sea stretching out in front of us.

The sight instantly brought back memories of my student days at Nargol in Gujarat, where our hostel stood close to the beach. Looking out over the water, I found myself reflecting on those youthful years and how life had taken me from a boarding school on the Gujarat coast to a motorhome parked beside the Bay of Bengal after driving all the way from London.

Life truly works in mysterious ways.

Before settling in for the evening, we phoned our friend Dr Ashok in Vizag to let him know we expected to arrive the following afternoon. We also asked him to help arrange accommodation for us.

With plans for tomorrow in place, it was time to enjoy the evening.

A small restaurant stood just a short walk from the beach.

After a couple of relaxing drinks, we treated ourselves to a delicious dinner of prawn curry, rotis, and rice, while listening to the sound of the waves breaking nearby.

It was a perfect ending to another enjoyable day on the road.

One concern remained, however.

Kontiki’s rear suspension.

Despite our various repairs, the rear of the motorhome was now sitting alarmingly low—only about six inches from the ground in places. Every bump and pothole threatened to scrape the underside.

Tomorrow, when we reached Vizag, finding a solution to the suspension problem would become our top priority.

For tonight, though, we were content to relax beside the sea and enjoy the journey.

Distance travelled: Approximately 300+ km south through Odisha
Route: West Bengal – Odisha – Gopalpur
Weather: Sunny, warm, and pleasant
Highlights: Driving along India’s east coast and spending the night by the sea at Gopalpur
Most memorable moment: Watching the ocean and reminiscing about student days in Nargol, Gujarat
Lunch stop: Traditional roadside dhaba
Dinner: Fresh prawn curry with rotis and rice at a beachfront restaurant
Vehicle update: Rear suspension continuing to sag, requiring urgent attention in Vizag
Accommodation: Seafront hotel in Gopalpur, Odisha
Mood of the day: Relaxed, nostalgic, and looking forward to reaching Vizag

Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki arrives in Visakhapatnam, where our faithful motorhome undergoes another round of repairs before continuing the final stages of our epic London-to-Mumbai road adventure.

Mahesh Karadia

A seasoned traveller since 1979.

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