London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 37 – 3 October 2016
Across the Edge of the Gobi Desert
We woke this morning to a complete change in the weather.
Gone were the warm desert temperatures of Turpan. Instead, we were greeted by grey skies, bitterly cold winds, and a dull, gloomy atmosphere that made us want to stay under the blankets a little longer.
But the road to Mumbai was not going to drive itself.
After breakfast, Team Kontiki said goodbye to the White Camel Youth Hostel and departed Turpan at around 10:00 am, heading towards Hami, approximately 410 kilometres away.
The drive turned out to be both fascinating and dramatic.
For much of the journey, we found ourselves travelling between two completely different landscapes. To our left stood magnificent snow-capped mountains, their white peaks contrasting sharply against the dark clouds overhead. To our right stretched the vast emptiness of the Gobi Desert, one of the largest deserts in the world.
It felt as though we were driving along the boundary between two different worlds.
The highway itself was excellent, with only a few diversions interrupting our progress. China’s road infrastructure continued to impress us with its quality and scale.
Despite the spectacular scenery, the weather remained cold and uninspiring. The gloomy skies seemed to sap everyone’s energy, and even Team Kontiki’s usually cheerful atmosphere became a little subdued.
At one point, we pulled into a service area for a welcome tea break.
A hot drink was exactly what we needed.
Standing outside with steaming cups of tea, we watched the clouds roll across the mountains and reflected on how quickly the landscapes had changed since entering China.
After our brief stop, we continued eastwards and arrived in Hami at around 4:00 pm.
Unlike some of our previous overnight stops, the hotel management informed us that sleeping in the motorhome was not permitted on their premises. We therefore had little choice but to book a room for all three of us.
At a cost of approximately £33, including breakfast, it was hardly an unreasonable expense and, given the weather, perhaps not such a bad thing after all.
No sooner had we checked into our room than the skies finally unleashed their fury.
For the next couple of hours, torrential rain hammered down outside. The downpour was so intense that we felt rather fortunate not to be sitting in the motorhome.
From our hotel room, we watched the rain cascade down the windows while appreciating the comfort of a warm, dry room.
Sometimes a proper roof over your head is a luxury worth having.
The weather eventually eased as evening approached, and we were treated to a pleasant surprise.
Our guide Abby, on behalf of her company, invited both Team Kontiki and Team USA out for dinner.
It was a thoughtful gesture and one that was greatly appreciated.
The meal provided an opportunity to sample more traditional Chinese cuisine while relaxing after a long day on the road. As always, there was plenty of conversation, laughter, and discussion about the journey ahead.
Naturally, there was also plenty of local beer.
By now, we were becoming quite accustomed to Chinese hospitality, and this evening was another fine example of it.
The dinner stretched well into the evening, and by the time we returned to the hotel it was approaching 11:00 pm.
One thing that continued to frustrate us was the poor mobile and internet connectivity. Signals were weak, messages often refused to send, and keeping in touch with family and friends back home was becoming increasingly difficult.
Nevertheless, after a long day of driving and a pleasant evening of food and drink, nobody had much energy left.
Soon afterwards, Team Kontiki retired for the night.
Outside, the weather remained cold and damp.
Inside, however, we were warm, comfortable, and content.
Another day, another city, and another step closer to Mumbai.
Distance travelled: Approximately 410 km (255 miles)
Route: Turpan to Hami, China
Weather: Cold, overcast, and later heavy rain
Highlights: Driving between the snow-capped mountains and the Gobi Desert, and enjoying a Chinese meal hosted by Abby
Accommodation: Hotel room for three (£33 including breakfast)
Dinner: Traditional Chinese meal with Team USA and Abby, accompanied by local beer
Most memorable moment: Watching torrential rain arrive just after checking into the hotel
Mood of the day: Quiet, reflective, and grateful for a warm room after a cold journey
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues its journey deeper into China, crossing vast landscapes and ancient Silk Road territories on the next stage of our epic London-to-Mumbai road adventure.
