London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 38 – 4 October 2016
Camels, Sand Dunes and an Oasis in the Desert
After breakfast, Team Kontiki left Hami at around 9:30 am and set off for Dunhuang, approximately 400 kilometres away. The weather was cool but thankfully dry, making for comfortable driving conditions.
As we left the city behind, we once again witnessed the remarkable contrast that makes this part of China so fascinating. Despite being surrounded by desert landscapes, the region was surprisingly productive. Vast fields of cotton, grapes, corn, and melons stretched alongside the road, creating ribbons of green against an otherwise arid backdrop.
We also passed numerous oil wells and what seemed like endless rows of wind turbines.
The region is famous for its strong winds, and China has taken full advantage of this natural resource. Thousands of turbines stood across the landscape, their blades turning steadily beneath the blue sky. It was an impressive sight and a reminder of the scale on which China develops its infrastructure.
For much of the journey, the scenery remained familiar. To our left stood magnificent snow-capped mountains, while to our right stretched the vast desert. The contrast between ice-covered peaks and dry desert plains continued to amaze us.
As we approached Dunhuang, however, the landscape changed once again.
To our surprise, water began appearing on both sides of the road. Curious about this unexpected sight in such an arid region, we asked our guide Abby for an explanation.
She told us that the water originated from the melting snow and ice high in the surrounding mountains. This precious water feeds the oasis communities that have existed here for centuries and helps sustain the farms and settlements scattered across the desert.
Once again, vineyards, melon farms, and cultivated fields began to appear, creating another green oasis in the heart of the desert.
By around 4:00 pm, we arrived at a charming family-run hostel and checked in for the night.
What happened next turned an ordinary afternoon into one of the highlights of our journey through China.
A friendly young woman from the hostel kindly offered to take us to see Dunhuang’s famous sand dunes. We happily accepted and boarded a local bus for the short journey.
Nothing prepared us for what awaited us.
As we arrived, we were greeted by an extraordinary sight.
Hundreds upon hundreds of camels stretched across the desert landscape. Tourists queued in long lines waiting for camel rides, while the giant sand dunes rose dramatically in the background.
It was like stepping back into the days of the ancient Silk Road.
For centuries, traders travelling between China, Central Asia, and the Middle East crossed these deserts with camel caravans carrying silk, spices, tea, and precious goods. Standing amongst so many camels, it was easy to imagine those historic journeys.
Ramesh and I couldn’t resist.
We joined one of the camel caravans and set off across the dunes while Dayal wisely chose to remain on solid ground and watch the spectacle unfold.
The experience was unforgettable.
Neither of us had ever seen so many camels in one place, let alone ridden one through the desert. The slow swaying motion, the vast dunes stretching into the distance, and the incredible atmosphere made it one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.
Meanwhile, Team USA opted for a different adventure and went sand skating on the dunes.
After our camel ride, Ramesh and I visited a nearby Buddhist temple, enjoying a quieter and more reflective experience before returning to meet the others.
By the time we got back to the hostel, darkness was beginning to fall over the desert.
At around 8:30 pm, everyone gathered together once again.
Team USA ordered a Chinese takeaway, while Team Kontiki prepared another home-cooked feast. Tonight’s menu consisted of a delicious brinjal (aubergine) curry accompanied by fresh rotis and rice.
A few drinks soon appeared, stories from the day’s adventures were exchanged, and laughter filled the evening.
The conversation naturally turned to our experiences in China so far. Every day seemed to bring something completely different—ancient history, spectacular landscapes, unexpected friendships, and fascinating cultural encounters.
Today had delivered all of those in abundance.
As we settled down for the night, we reflected on a day that had taken us from fertile farmland and wind farms to one of the most famous desert landscapes along the Silk Road.
Tomorrow, our journey would continue to Jiayuguan, approximately 430 kilometres away.
But tonight, we would sleep with memories of camels, sand dunes, and desert sunsets.
Distance travelled: Approximately 400 km (250 miles)
Route: Hami to Dunhuang, China
Weather: Cool, dry, and pleasant
Highlights: Visiting the famous sand dunes, riding camels, and experiencing the Silk Road atmosphere of Dunhuang
Most memorable moment: Riding camels through the desert amongst hundreds of other camels
Dinner: Brinjal curry, rotis, rice, Chinese takeaway, and a few drinks with Team USA
Accommodation: Family-run hostel in Dunhuang
Mood of the day: Adventurous, fascinated, and thoroughly enjoying China’s ancient Silk Road region
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues eastwards to Jiayuguan, home to the western end of the Great Wall of China and another important chapter in our epic London-to-Mumbai road journey.
