London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 39 – 5 October 2016
Reaching the End of the Great Wall
After another enjoyable night in Dunhuang, Team Kontiki was back on the road once again. We left at around 9:45 am, heading east towards Jiayuguan, one of the most historically important locations on the ancient Silk Road.
The scenery continued to surprise us.
Only yesterday we had been travelling through desert landscapes and towering sand dunes, yet within a short distance the surroundings changed dramatically. The countryside became greener, with farms stretching across both sides of the highway. Everywhere we looked there were fields under cultivation and roadside stalls selling fresh produce.
The variety of fruits available was astonishing. Vendors displayed grapes, melons, apples, pears, and many other local fruits. We also passed what seemed like endless stacks of onions packed into large sacks, ready to be transported to markets across China.
China’s agricultural production was clearly on a massive scale.
Alongside the farms, we continued to see huge renewable energy projects. Vast solar farms covered large sections of land, while thousands of wind turbines turned steadily in the distance. It was remarkable to see both traditional agriculture and modern energy production existing side by side.
Another noticeable change was the road signage.
As we travelled further east, more signs were now appearing in both Chinese and English, making navigation considerably easier than it had been in western Xinjiang.
One thing we had forgotten to mention earlier was that China was currently celebrating its National Day holiday period. As a result, all toll roads had been opened free of charge until 9 October. For once, every motorway journey was costing us nothing, which was a welcome bonus considering the expense of travelling through China.
We were now travelling through the region surrounding the magnificent Qilian Mountains, whose snow-capped peaks continued to dominate the distant horizon.
Before reaching Jiayuguan itself, Abby arranged a visit to one of China’s most famous historical landmarks—the Jiayu Pass.
Known as the western terminus of the Great Wall of China, Jiayu Pass is considered the largest and best-preserved military pass along the entire wall. Built during the Ming Dynasty over 600 years ago, it once marked the very edge of imperial China.
For centuries, merchants travelling the Silk Road passed through this gateway as they journeyed between China, Central Asia, and beyond.
Standing there, it was impossible not to feel a sense of history.
This was the point where the civilisation of China met the vast deserts and steppes of Central Asia. Traders, soldiers, explorers, and pilgrims had all passed through these gates long before our own journey from London to Mumbai.
After exploring Jiayu Pass, we travelled a few kilometres further to visit another section of the Great Wall—an original and much older stretch climbing into the surrounding hills.
This section was far less restored and considerably more challenging to reach.
Naturally, Ramesh and I decided to climb it.
The ascent was steep and demanding, but the views became increasingly spectacular with every step. Looking across the rugged landscape from the top, we could see why the wall was built in such commanding positions.
The climb took us approximately an hour, and by the time we reached the summit we were both feeling quite pleased with ourselves.
Meanwhile, Dayal and Abby had made what was arguably the wiser decision.
Rather than tackle the steep climb, they stayed behind and enjoyed a relaxing coffee while waiting for our return.
Everyone has their own priorities!
After completing our exploration of the Great Wall, we continued to Jiayuguan, where accommodation had already been arranged by Abby and Team USA.
The hostel was comfortable and conveniently located. Team USA and Abby booked rooms inside the hostel, while Team Kontiki once again chose to stay in our faithful motorhome.
After all, Kontiki had carried us this far and still felt like home.
As evening approached, we reflected on what had been another fascinating day.
We had travelled through fertile farmland, seen some of China’s largest renewable energy projects, and stood at one of the most important locations in Chinese history.
Most importantly, we had reached the western end of the Great Wall of China—a place we had only ever read about before.
Now we had climbed it ourselves.
Distance travelled: Approximately 380 km (235 miles)
Route: Dunhuang to Jiayuguan, China
Weather: Pleasant, sunny, and dry
Highlights: Visiting Jiayu Pass and climbing an original section of the Great Wall of China
Most memorable moment: Standing atop the ancient wall overlooking the historic Silk Road route
Accommodation: Hostel parking for Kontiki, hostel rooms for Team USA and Abby
Interesting fact: Chinese National Day holidays meant all toll roads were free until 9 October
Mood of the day: Inspired, reflective, and amazed by China’s history
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues eastward along the ancient Silk Road, leaving the Great Wall behind and venturing deeper into China on our unforgettable road journey from London to Mumbai.
