London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 25 – 21 September 2016
Running on Fumes into Almaty
Our overnight stop in Akyusek had been one of the most basic of the journey so far. Facilities were minimal, but it had provided a safe place to rest, and that was all we really needed.
After a simple breakfast in the motorhome, Team Kontiki set off towards Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and one of the most important stops on our route before entering China.
The weather was pleasant, and the roads stretched endlessly ahead through the open Kazakh countryside. Along the way, we were treated to a sight we hadn’t expected—numerous wild camels roaming freely across the landscape. Seeing these magnificent animals wandering through the semi-desert terrain was a reminder that we were now deep in Central Asia and far removed from the roads and scenery of Europe.
As the day progressed, however, a new challenge emerged.
We were running dangerously low on Kazakh currency.
Ordinarily this wouldn’t have been a major problem, but many of the filling stations we encountered either did not accept credit and debit cards or their card machines simply weren’t working. With every passing mile, our fuel gauge continued to drop.
At first, we remained calm.
After all, we still carried a 15-litre emergency jerry can of diesel. Even so, nobody wanted to test just how far Kontiki could travel once the fuel tank was empty.
Several filling stations turned us away.
“No card.”
“No card.”
“No card.”
The answer was always the same.
Eventually, the dreaded low-fuel warning light illuminated on the dashboard.
For a moment, the atmosphere inside the motorhome became noticeably quieter.
We weren’t panicking, but we were certainly becoming anxious.
Fortunately, luck was on our side once again.
Just a few miles further along the road, we spotted another fuel station and decided to try our luck one final time.
To our immense relief, they accepted debit cards.
The feeling was almost as satisfying as crossing an international border.
As diesel flowed into Kontiki’s tank, a collective sigh of relief swept through Team Kontiki. Once again, a potentially stressful situation had been resolved.
With full tanks and renewed confidence, we continued towards Almaty.
The countryside gradually gave way to suburbs, and before long we found ourselves navigating the busy streets of Kazakhstan’s former capital. Snow-capped mountains could be seen in the distance, providing a stunning backdrop to the city.
Eventually, we found a parking space in the city centre and headed into a shopping centre to look around and organise our accommodation.
It was there that we met a friendly young Kazakh woman named Latifa.
Fortunately for us, she spoke excellent English.
We explained that we were trying to contact a local friend named Zhan but were struggling with the language barrier. Without hesitation, Latifa kindly offered her assistance and made the phone call on our behalf.
Her help proved invaluable.
We arranged to meet Zhan later that afternoon at a Starbucks café.
At around 5:00 pm, Zhan arrived, and after enjoying coffee together, both he and Latifa helped us search for accommodation in the city.
Once again, the kindness of strangers amazed us.
Before long, they had found us a beautiful apartment in a modern building for all three of us at a cost of approximately £34 per night.
The apartment was located on the 10th floor, offering magnificent views across the city and towards the distant mountains. After many nights spent at fuel stations, campsites, and roadside stops, it felt positively luxurious.
Before settling in for the evening, we returned to Kontiki to prepare dinner.
As always, Ramesh took charge of the cooking.
Tonight’s menu was simple but satisfying—freshly cooked daal (lentils) and rice, which provided exactly the comfort food we needed after another long day on the road.
With dinner finished, we retired to our apartment and enjoyed the comforts of a proper bed, hot shower, and spectacular city views.
To round off the evening, we shared a couple of shots of Johnnie Walker Black Label while reflecting on another successful day.
From wild camels and fuel worries to unexpected friendships and a luxury apartment in Almaty, the day had been full of surprises.
As we looked out over the city lights from the tenth floor, we felt grateful once again for the generosity of people we had met along the way.
The road to Mumbai still stretched thousands of miles ahead, but tonight Team Kontiki was very happy indeed.
Distance travelled: Approximately 250 miles (400 km)
Route: Akyusek to Almaty, Kazakhstan
Highlight of the day: Finding fuel just in time and meeting the helpful Latifa and Zhan
Accommodation: 10th-floor apartment in Almaty (£34 per night)
Dinner: Daal and rice
Evening drink: Johnnie Walker Black Label
Mood of the day: Relieved, grateful, and excited to explore Almaty
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki spends time exploring the beautiful city of Almaty, nestled beneath the spectacular mountains of southern Kazakhstan, before continuing our epic journey towards China and ultimately Mumbai.
