London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited

Day 42 – 8 October 2016

Face to Face with the Terracotta Army

Today was one of the days we had been looking forward to since planning our journey through China.

Our destination was the world-famous Terracotta Army, one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the twentieth century and one of China’s most remarkable historical treasures.

The story behind its discovery is almost as fascinating as the site itself.

In 1974, a local farmer named Yang Zhifa was digging a well on his land when he uncovered fragments of terracotta pottery. What began as an ordinary farming activity soon turned into one of the most important archaeological discoveries in history.

The excavation revealed thousands of life-sized terracotta soldiers, horses, and military figures buried underground for over two thousand years.

After breakfast, Team Kontiki made our way to the site by local bus. Although the distance from Xi’an was only about 40 kilometres, the journey took around an hour and a half due to traffic and the large number of visitors travelling to see this world-famous attraction.

Upon arrival, we hired an English-speaking guide to help us understand the history and significance of what we were about to see.

It proved to be one of the best decisions of the day.

The Terracotta Army forms part of the vast mausoleum complex of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor who unified China in 221 BC. The emperor believed strongly in the afterlife and ordered the creation of an enormous underground army to protect him after death.

It is estimated that construction began over 2,200 years ago and involved hundreds of thousands of workers.

The excavation site itself is housed within three enormous buildings, each resembling a giant aircraft hangar.

As we entered the first hall, the scale of the discovery took our breath away.

Before us stood row upon row of terracotta soldiers stretching into the distance.

Thousands of figures had already been uncovered, while many more remained buried beneath the earth awaiting future excavation. Archaeologists believe that the complete site may eventually reveal over 7,000 soldiers, together with horses, chariots, officers, generals, and support personnel.

What made the display even more remarkable was the individuality of the figures.

No two faces appeared exactly the same.

Each soldier seemed to possess unique facial features, hairstyles, expressions, and uniforms depending on rank and role within the army. Standing there, it almost felt as though an ancient army had been frozen in time.

Our guide explained how the figures were made from terracotta, a form of baked clay, and how many of them had originally been painted in vibrant colours before centuries underground caused the pigments to fade.

Excavation work was still continuing, and archaeologists were constantly learning more about the vast underground complex surrounding the emperor’s tomb.

For several hours, we wandered through the different excavation halls, listening to fascinating stories, asking questions, and taking countless photographs.

One particularly memorable moment came when we had the opportunity to see Yang Zhifa, the very farmer who had discovered the Terracotta Army all those years ago.

By then he had become something of a local celebrity and was often present at the site signing books and greeting visitors.

Naturally, Team Kontiki could not resist taking a photograph.

One of our favourite pictures from the day shows Dayal standing proudly beside Yang, linking a simple farmer’s accidental discovery with our own extraordinary journey from London to Mumbai.

As we left the site later that afternoon, we couldn’t help but reflect on the sheer scale of human achievement represented by the Terracotta Army.

More than two millennia ago, thousands of craftsmen created an army intended to guard an emperor in the next world.

Today, that same army continues to inspire and amaze millions of visitors from around the globe.

For Team Kontiki, it was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our entire journey through China.

Location: Xi’an, Shaanxi Province, China
Weather: Pleasant and ideal for sightseeing
Highlights: Visiting the Terracotta Army and meeting Yang Zhifa, the farmer who discovered the site
Most memorable moment: Standing before thousands of life-sized terracotta soldiers buried for over 2,000 years
Interesting fact: Archaeologists believe the complete Terracotta Army may contain over 7,000 soldiers, horses, and chariots
Photography: Numerous photographs taken, including one of Dayal with Yang Zhifa
Mood of the day: Amazed, inspired, and fascinated by one of the world’s greatest archaeological treasures

Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues its journey eastwards through China, carrying with us memories of emperors, ancient armies, and one of the most extraordinary discoveries in human history on our epic road trip from London to Mumbai.

Raj Karadia (Team Kontiki)

A seasoned traveller since 1979.

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