London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 55 – 21 October 2016
Back to India – A Homecoming Like No Other
Today was one of the most emotional and eagerly anticipated days of our entire journey.
After travelling through Europe, Russia, Kazakhstan, China, and Myanmar, Team Kontiki was finally about to enter India, the country of our origin.
Although we visit India regularly, usually every couple of years, this felt completely different.
This time, we had not arrived by aeroplane.
We had driven thousands of miles across two continents in a 22-year-old motorhome, overcoming breakdowns, border crossings, language barriers, rough roads, and countless challenges along the way.
The excitement inside Kontiki was impossible to describe.
We left Kalaymyo at around 8:00 am, determined to reach the border as early as possible.
The weather was warm and sunny, and thankfully the roads were somewhat better than the punishing tracks we had encountered the previous day.
Even so, the journey remained interesting.
Along the route, we crossed numerous narrow bridges constructed from wooden planks and steel plates. They were perfectly adequate for local traffic but far from ideal for a heavily loaded motorhome with damaged suspension.
Every crossing required concentration and a little faith.
The road from Kalaymyo to Tamu is known as the India–Myanmar Friendship Road, a fitting name for the route linking the two neighbouring countries.
The distance was only about 130 kilometres, but after our experiences in Myanmar, we had learned not to judge journeys by distance alone.
By around midday, we arrived in Tamu, the final town on the Myanmar side of the border.
It was time to say goodbye to our guide Soe, who had successfully shepherded us through one of the most challenging sections of our journey.
We thanked him warmly for his help and guidance and wished him well before joining the queue of vehicles waiting to cross.
The Myanmar exit formalities were surprisingly efficient and completed without difficulty.
Then came the moment we had been waiting for.
Ahead of us stood a bridge crossing a river between the two countries.
What made it particularly memorable was its unusual appearance.
Half of the bridge was painted gold, representing Myanmar.
The other half was painted silver, representing India.
Slowly, Kontiki rolled forward.
For a few brief moments, we were between two countries.
Then, just like that, we crossed onto the silver side.
We were back in India.
The feeling was extraordinary.
After more than seven weeks on the road, we had reached our homeland by road.
There were smiles all round inside Kontiki.
A major milestone had been achieved.
On the Indian side, we entered the border town of Moreh and made our way to what we were told was the immigration and customs office.
What we found was almost comical after the highly organised border facilities of China.
The “office” looked more like an ordinary village house with a thatched roof. Inside were a few tables, a handful of chairs, and a couple of casually dressed officials.
For a moment, we wondered whether we had arrived at the correct place.
We had.
This was indeed Indian Immigration and Customs.
The contrast between China’s modern border complexes and this simple setup could not have been greater.
Yet despite its appearance, the officials were friendly and efficient.
Both immigration and customs formalities were completed quickly, and before long Team Kontiki was officially back on Indian soil.
Naturally, the first thing we did was stop for lunch.
At a hotel called Elora, we enjoyed a delicious meal followed by something we had missed greatly during our travels—proper Indian masala tea.
After weeks of different cuisines and beverages, that first cup of masala chai tasted absolutely wonderful.
Refreshed and satisfied, we continued towards Imphal, the capital of the state of Manipur.
What followed was one of the most difficult driving experiences of the entire trip.
The road was narrow, winding, and riddled with potholes.
Steep hills, deep gorges, landslide zones, and narrow mountain passes demanded constant concentration.
The local driving style added another layer of challenge.
Impatient drivers appeared determined to overtake at every opportunity, regardless of bends, visibility, or oncoming traffic. Constant hooting became the soundtrack of the afternoon.
As darkness fell, conditions deteriorated further.
Many vehicles approached with full-beam headlights, making visibility extremely poor. Combined with the rough road surface and dangerous drops beside the road, it turned what should have been a relatively short journey into a stressful ordeal.
The statistics tell the story perfectly.
It took us six hours to travel just 87 kilometres.
Eventually, at around 8:00 pm, we arrived in Imphal, exhausted but relieved.
By now, Kontiki was also showing signs of strain.
The suspension damage sustained in Myanmar had worsened, and we discovered that the second shock absorber was now also hanging loose.
Clearly, repairs would be needed before we could continue further into India.
We therefore checked into a hotel and decided to stay for a couple of days while we sourced parts and repairs.
As we settled down that evening, tired but happy, one thought kept returning.
After 55 days on the road, Team Kontiki had finally made it back to India.
Mumbai was still some distance away, but home suddenly felt much closer than ever before.
Distance travelled: Approximately 217 km (130 km in Myanmar and 87 km in India)
Route: Kalaymyo – Tamu – Moreh – Imphal
Weather: Warm, sunny, and pleasant
Highlights: Crossing from Myanmar into India and enjoying our first Indian meal and masala tea
Most memorable moment: Driving across the gold-and-silver border bridge into India
Challenge of the day: Extremely poor mountain roads between Moreh and Imphal
Vehicle update: Second shock absorber damaged and repairs required before continuing
Accommodation: Hotel in Imphal, Manipur
Mood of the day: Emotional, proud, relieved, and delighted to be back in India
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki takes a short break in Imphal to repair our faithful motorhome before continuing the final stages of our incredible London-to-Mumbai road journey.
