London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 81 – 16 November 2016
A Sacred Pilgrimage and an Evening in Kovalam
Today began long before sunrise.
The alarm sounded early, and by 5:00 am we were already on our way by auto-rickshaw to the sacred island of Rameswaram, one of the holiest pilgrimage destinations in Hinduism.
For Hindus, a visit to the Ramanathaswamy Temple is considered deeply significant and spiritually rewarding. Located on Rameswaram Island, the temple has attracted pilgrims for centuries and is closely associated with the epic Ramayana. It is believed that Lord Rama worshipped Lord Shiva here before crossing to Lanka.
The present structure of the temple was largely built between the 18th century, with major construction taking place between 1740 and 1770. It is famous for its magnificent architecture, including one of the longest temple corridors in the world, lined with over 1,200 intricately carved pillars.
Another unique feature of the temple is its 22 sacred wells, each containing holy water believed to possess different spiritual qualities.
Pilgrims traditionally bathe in the water from each well as part of a purification ritual.
Having come prepared for the experience, we left our cameras and mobile phones at the hotel because photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple complex.
A local guide, who was also a Brahmin priest, accompanied us throughout the rituals and explained their significance.
What followed was one of the most remarkable experiences of our journey.
One by one, water from each of the 22 holy wells was poured over us.
Every well had its own history, symbolism, and importance. The ritual is believed to cleanse both body and soul and help devotees leave behind negative influences.
It is difficult to adequately describe the feeling.
The combination of faith, tradition, architecture, colour, and atmosphere created something truly special.
The temple interior was absolutely mesmerising.
Magnificent corridors seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance, while intricate carvings and colourful decorations surrounded us on all sides.
It was frustrating not to be able to photograph such beauty, but perhaps that made the experience even more meaningful.
Some memories are best preserved in the mind rather than through a camera lens.
After completing the rituals, we returned to our hotel feeling both refreshed and uplifted.
Following breakfast, it was time to continue our journey.
Our next destination was Kovalam, one of Kerala’s most famous beach resorts, approximately 370 kilometres away.
Shortly after leaving, we encountered about half an hour of rain, but fortunately the weather soon improved.
The roads were excellent, allowing Kontiki to cruise comfortably through the beautiful landscapes of southern India.
By now, with the suspension repairs completed in Vizag, driving the motorhome had become enjoyable again.
The scenery gradually changed as we entered Kerala, often referred to as “God’s Own Country” because of its natural beauty, palm-lined coastline, and backwaters.
By around 6:00 pm, we reached Kovalam and checked into the Park International Resort.
After freshening up, we headed straight for the beach.
The sight that greeted us was stunning.
The beach was beautifully illuminated, with lights reflecting off the sea and restaurants lining the shoreline. The atmosphere was lively but relaxed, and the gentle sound of the waves provided the perfect soundtrack to the evening.
Naturally, after a long day, we felt it was time for a cold beer.
What followed was one of the more amusing experiences of our trip.
At the first beachside establishment, our beer arrived in what appeared to be coffee mugs.
Slightly puzzled, we drank it anyway.
The second place did exactly the same.
By now, we were beginning to wonder whether drinking beer from coffee mugs was simply a Kerala tradition.
Everywhere we looked, people appeared to be doing the same thing.
Curiosity eventually got the better of us.
At a third venue, we politely requested proper beer glasses.
The waiter smiled and agreed—but only if we sat on the balcony.
Naturally, we accepted.
The balcony offered magnificent views of the illuminated beach and sea, making it one of the best seats in town.
While enjoying the view, one of the waiters finally revealed the real reason behind the mystery.
Some of the establishments did not possess alcohol licences, so beer was discreetly served in coffee mugs to avoid attracting unwanted attention.
Mystery solved!
Unfortunately, the evening meal itself was rather disappointing.
After the wonderful food we had enjoyed elsewhere on our journey, tonight’s offerings failed to meet expectations.
Still, the beautiful surroundings, the amusing beer-in-coffee-mugs episode, and the spectacular views more than compensated.
As we returned to the resort, we had another reason to be excited.
Tomorrow, we would be driving to Trivandrum Airport to collect my brother Anil, who was flying in from London to join Team Kontiki for the final stages of our adventure.
The team was growing once again.
Distance travelled: Approximately 370 km (230 miles)
Route: Rameswaram, Tamil Nadu to Kovalam, Kerala
Weather: Early sunshine with a brief spell of rain, warm evening by the coast
Highlights: Visiting the sacred Ramanathaswamy Temple and experiencing the ritual bathing of the 22 holy wells
Most memorable moment: The spiritual experience inside one of Hinduism’s holiest temples
Funny moment: Discovering why beer was being served in coffee mugs along Kovalam Beach
Accommodation: Park International Resort, Kovalam
Dinner: Beachfront meal with mixed reviews but excellent sea views
Tomorrow’s plan: Collect Anil from Trivandrum Airport and continue the final chapter of the journey
Mood of the day: Spiritual, reflective, and looking forward to welcoming another member to Team Kontiki
“Some places leave you impressed, others leave you inspired. Rameswaram left us feeling humbled, while Kovalam reminded us that travel should always include a little laughter along the way.”
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki welcomes another family member from London and continues the countdown towards Mumbai.
