London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 20 – 16 September 2016
Across the Endless Kazakh Steppe
After a comfortable night at the service area, we set off at around 9:30 am and began our journey deeper into Kazakhstan. Our target for the day was to head towards Astana (now known as Astana once again), via Kostanay, with the capital still some 580 miles away.
We knew from the outset that it was going to be another long and demanding day.
The weather did little to lift our spirits. The sky remained dull and overcast, with occasional showers drifting across the vast open landscape. Unlike the scenic mountain roads and historic towns we had enjoyed elsewhere, Kazakhstan greeted us with seemingly endless flat plains stretching to the horizon in every direction.
For mile after mile, all we could see were farms, grasslands, and open countryside.
To be honest, it was not the most exciting day of the journey in terms of scenery.
Adding to the challenge was the fact that we no longer had the luxury of reliable satellite navigation. We were back to navigating the old-fashioned way, using paper maps, road signs, and educated guesses.
The problem was that most of the road signs were written in the local language and Cyrillic script. Combined with limited English spoken in rural areas, navigation became something of an adventure in itself. Clear signposting was often lacking, and at times we found ourselves relying as much on instinct as on maps.
Unsurprisingly, we eventually took a wrong turn.
What should have been a straightforward route correction turned into almost an hour of backtracking before we finally found our way back onto the correct road. Fortunately, by now Team Kontiki had learned to take such setbacks in good humour.
One of the most fascinating aspects of travelling through Kazakhstan was observing how the appearance of the people was changing as we moved further east. The country sits at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, and the population reflects that rich blend of cultures. Some people looked distinctly East Asian, others appeared more Central Asian, while some had features that reminded us of people from the Indian subcontinent.
It was a visible reminder that we were now travelling through one of the world’s great cultural crossroads.
During the afternoon, we had our first encounter with the Kazakh police.
Thankfully, it was entirely routine.
The officers stopped us, checked our documents, inspected our paperwork, and then politely pointed out that we should be driving with our headlights switched on at all times. It was a regulation we hadn’t been aware of.
Lesson learned.
As we joked amongst ourselves afterwards, it was clear that Team Kontiki had not done its homework quite as thoroughly as we thought!
Despite the navigation challenges, poor roads, and occasional delays, we managed to cover around 370 miles in 10 hours. The roads were noticeably rougher than those we had encountered in Western Europe, and every mile required concentration.
By evening, we reached the town of Atbasar and began searching for somewhere safe to spend the night.
Eventually, we found a hotel with a large car park and decided to ask if we could park there overnight. What followed was a lengthy but amusing negotiation. The language barrier meant that it took nearly an hour to explain that we didn’t need a hotel room—we simply wanted permission to park the motorhome and use the toilets and showers in the morning.
Through a combination of gestures, smiles, maps, and a great deal of patience, we eventually reached an agreement.
For 1,700 Tenge, approximately £4, we secured our overnight parking spot and access to the facilities. Considering the comfort and security it offered, it was money well spent.
With the day’s driving finally over, it was time to relax.
As Team Kontiki settled down with a few well-earned beers, Ramesh once again worked his culinary magic. Tonight’s menu featured chickpea curry, tinned taro leaves, and freshly made rotis. After another long day on the road, the meal was thoroughly enjoyed by all.
Not every day of an overland expedition is filled with spectacular scenery or famous landmarks. Some days are simply about covering distance, solving problems, and keeping the wheels turning.
Today was one of those days.
And while we may not have any particularly exciting photographs to share, we had successfully crossed another large section of Kazakhstan and moved one step closer to our destination.
Distance travelled: Approximately 370 miles (595 km)
Route: Kazakhstan towards Kostanay and Astana
Weather: Overcast, cool, and occasionally rainy
Highlight of the day: Experiencing the vast Kazakh steppe and meeting the local police
Night halt: Hotel car park, Atbasar, Kazakhstan
Cost of overnight parking and facilities: 1,700 Tenge (approximately £4)
Dinner: Chickpea curry, taro leaves, rotis, and cold beer
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki continues across the immense plains of Kazakhstan towards Astana, navigating unfamiliar roads, language barriers, and the ever-changing landscapes of Central Asia on our epic journey from London to Mumbai.
