London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 21 – 17 September 2016
An Unforgettable Evening in Astana
Today turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and memorable days of our entire journey.
After leaving Atbasar in the morning, Team Kontiki headed towards Astana, the modern capital of Kazakhstan. The distance was approximately 250 kilometres, and thankfully the roads improved significantly compared to those we had experienced over the previous few days. Driving became much easier, and for the first time in Kazakhstan we were able to make good progress without constantly battling potholes and rough surfaces.
Along the way, we passed something that caught our attention—an old abandoned motorhome sitting by the roadside. We couldn’t help wondering about its story. Had it once belonged to another adventurous traveller exploring the world, only for its journey to end here on the vast Kazakh steppe? It certainly made us appreciate our faithful old Kontiki even more.
By around midday, we arrived in the centre of Astana with surprisingly little difficulty.
As we searched for accommodation, fate stepped in once again.
We happened to meet a friendly local couple named John and Sherbet, both of whom spoke excellent English. Upon hearing about our journey from London to Mumbai, they immediately offered to help.
John accompanied us to a nearby hotel and kindly explained our unusual accommodation requirements to the reception staff. We only needed one hotel room, as two members of Team Kontiki intended to sleep in the motorhome parked outside.
After a little discussion, the hotel agreed to the arrangement for 17,000 Tenge, approximately £28.
Not only that, but John later returned and drove us to a nearby bus stop so we could join a city sightseeing tour.
From that moment onwards, our day just kept getting better.
Astana was unlike anything we had expected.
The city appeared futuristic, modern, and incredibly well planned. Wide boulevards, impressive architecture, gleaming skyscrapers, and beautifully landscaped public spaces gave it a feel that reminded us of Dubai. It was hard to believe that much of the city had been built relatively recently after becoming Kazakhstan’s capital.
Our sightseeing tour took us past a remarkable collection of modern buildings, monuments, and government complexes. Everywhere we looked there was evidence of ambition and investment.
One of the shopping centres we visited was particularly impressive. Inside were many familiar Western brands including Next, Topshop, and numerous international retailers. The atmosphere was modern and vibrant, with stylishly dressed locals enjoying their weekend.
To our surprise, the top floor even contained an indoor amusement park, adding yet another unexpected attraction to this remarkable city.
By the end of the afternoon, we were thoroughly impressed with Astana.
However, the highlight of the day was still to come.
Earlier, we had arranged to meet John and Sherbet for dinner. They kindly offered to take us to an Indian restaurant, knowing that after weeks on the road we might appreciate a taste of home.
Unfortunately, when we arrived, we discovered that the first restaurant was closed. We then tried a second one, only to find that it too was shut.
Not wanting to waste the evening, we agreed to try a traditional Kazakh restaurant instead.
The food was quite different from what we were used to. It was less spicy and milder in flavour than Indian cuisine, but it was nevertheless delicious and gave us an opportunity to experience local food and culture.
The restaurant itself was lively and full of atmosphere. There was live music, singing, and dancing, while elegantly dressed Kazakh men and women enjoyed their evening.
Then something completely unexpected happened.
Suddenly, through the speakers came a familiar tune:
“I Am a Disco Dancer.”
We looked at each other in disbelief.
Thousands of miles from India, sitting in a restaurant in Kazakhstan, we were hearing one of Bollywood’s most iconic songs. Before long, we found ourselves on the dance floor, laughing and dancing alongside the locals.
Sherbet, clearly enjoying the moment as much as we were, sent a request to the singer asking for a few more Bollywood songs.
To our delight, the musicians happily obliged.
The entire restaurant seemed to embrace the occasion, and for a little while it felt as though Kazakhstan and India had come together through music.
We later learned that Bollywood films and music are extremely popular throughout much of Central Asia, and tonight we experienced that first-hand.
After dinner, John and Sherbet were not yet finished showing us their city. They took us on a leisurely drive through Astana’s beautifully illuminated streets. The city looked spectacular after dark, with its modern buildings glowing against the night sky.
It was simply breathtaking.
Eventually, they dropped us back at our hotel, where we said our goodbyes and thanked them sincerely for their generosity and kindness.
Just a few hours earlier, they had been complete strangers.
Now they felt like old friends.
Travelling teaches you many things, but perhaps the most valuable lesson is that kindness exists everywhere in the world. Today, John and Sherbet reminded us of that in the most wonderful way.
This was undoubtedly a night we would never forget.
Distance travelled: Approximately 250 km
Location: Astana, Kazakhstan
Accommodation: Hotel room and motorhome parking (£28 equivalent)
Highlights: Exploring Astana, meeting John and Sherbet, enjoying Kazakh hospitality, and dancing to Bollywood music in a local restaurant
Most memorable moment: Hearing “I Am a Disco Dancer” in a Kazakh restaurant and joining the locals on the dance floor
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki leaves the dazzling city of Astana behind and continues its epic journey across Kazakhstan towards the vast landscapes and adventures that await further east on the road to Mumbai
