London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 61 – 27 October 2016
The Toy Train to Darjeeling
Today was a welcome break from driving and mechanical worries.
For the first time in many days, Kontiki would be staying put while Team Kontiki headed into the foothills of the Himalayas to visit one of India’s most famous hill stations—Darjeeling.
The day started very early.
We had arranged for a taxi to take us from Siliguri to Kurseong, where we would board the legendary Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, better known as the “Toy Train.”
At 5:00 am sharp, our taxi arrived outside the hotel. It was still dark, and the morning air felt surprisingly cold compared to the heat we had experienced in Assam and Nagaland.
The drive to Kurseong took around an hour and a half, climbing steadily into the hills as dawn slowly broke over the eastern Himalayas.
By the time we reached the station, we could already see the famous little train waiting patiently on the platform.
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, built by the British in the early 1880s, is one of India’s great engineering achievements and is now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Remarkably, very little has changed since colonial times.
The train still runs on an incredibly narrow gauge of just two feet, winding its way through the mountains much as it did over a century ago.
Our train consisted of only two small carriages.
One was First Class, costing around Rs. 210 per person, while the Second Class carriage cost just Rs. 60 per person.
As the train slowly pulled out of Kurseong, we knew immediately that this was going to be a special experience.
The journey itself covered only 36 kilometres, but it would take around two and a half hours to complete.
Speed, however, was not the point.
This was a railway designed to be enjoyed.
The scenery was breathtaking.
The track twisted and turned through the Himalayan foothills, climbing steadily higher as magnificent mountain views unfolded around every corner. At times the train passed so close to houses and shops that it felt as though you could reach out and touch them.
Cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, and even market stalls shared space with the railway.
It was unlike any train journey we had ever experienced.
Along the way, we met two young travellers from England—one from Bath and the other from Walsall.
They were thoroughly enjoying their adventures in India, and we spent some time exchanging travel stories.
As always, Kontiki’s journey attracted plenty of interest once people learned we had driven all the way from London.
Another fascinating encounter came when we met Rajan Banerjee, a respected tea estate owner from the nearby village of Makaibari, home to one of Darjeeling’s most famous tea gardens.
After hearing about our journey, he warmly invited us to visit his tea estate the following day and enjoy tea with him.
It was an invitation we were delighted to accept.
By around 10:30 am, the train finally arrived in Darjeeling.
The cool mountain air immediately felt refreshing.
Like many travellers before us, our first priority was simple.
Breakfast.
After the early start and long train journey, all three of us were hungry.
Once suitably fed, we checked into a hotel where we booked a room for Rs. 1,600 for the night.
The plan was to spend the day exploring Darjeeling and return to Siliguri by taxi the following day, stopping at Rajan Banerjee’s tea estate on the way.
To make the most of our time, we hired a local taxi and spent the afternoon sightseeing.
Our driver proved to be an excellent guide, showing us many of Darjeeling’s attractions and viewpoints.
Perched high in the Himalayas, Darjeeling is often referred to as the “Queen of the Hills,” and it was easy to understand why.
The combination of colonial architecture, winding mountain roads, tea gardens, colourful markets, and spectacular views created a unique atmosphere unlike anywhere else we had visited.
We thoroughly enjoyed every moment.
As evening descended, the town became even more charming.
The cool mountain air, twinkling lights, and bustling streets made for a wonderful atmosphere.
Naturally, Team Kontiki headed out for a few drinks followed by dinner at a local restaurant.
The meal produced mixed reviews.
Ramesh and I thought the food was excellent.
Dayal, however, was far less impressed.
In fact, he spent much of the meal explaining exactly why it was not to his taste.
Some things never change.
After a day filled with stunning scenery, fascinating railway history, new friendships, and plenty of laughter, we returned to our hotel and settled in for the night.
Tomorrow would bring another special experience—a visit to one of Darjeeling’s famous tea estates before continuing our journey back towards Siliguri and ultimately onwards to Mumbai.
Distance travelled: 36 km by Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
Route: Siliguri – Kurseong – Darjeeling
Weather: Cold early morning, pleasant and cool in Darjeeling
Highlights: Riding the UNESCO-listed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and exploring the hill station of Darjeeling
Most memorable moment: Travelling through the Himalayas on the famous Toy Train
New friends: Two English travellers and tea estate owner Rajan Banerjee
Accommodation: Hotel in Darjeeling
Dinner verdict: Approved by Ramesh and Raj, rejected by Dayal!
Mood of the day: Relaxed, nostalgic, and thoroughly enjoying one of India’s most beautiful destinations
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki visits a famous Darjeeling tea estate and learns more about the world-renowned tea that has made this Himalayan town famous across the globe.
