London to Mumbai by Road 2016 – Revisited
Day 62 – 28 October 2016
Tea, History, and More Repairs for Faithful Kontiki
After a wonderful evening in Darjeeling, we woke to another cool and refreshing Himalayan morning.
Today’s plan was simple but special.
We would visit the famous Makaibari Tea Estate, owned by Rajan Banerjee, whom we had met on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway the previous day.
At around 9:00 am, we left our hotel by taxi and made our way through the winding mountain roads to the village of Makaibari, nestled amongst the lush tea-covered hills of Darjeeling.
The scenery along the way was spectacular.
Terraced tea gardens stretched across the hillsides, disappearing into the misty valleys below. It was easy to understand why Darjeeling tea is regarded as one of the finest and most sought-after teas in the world.
When we arrived at the estate, Rajan was not immediately available, but his staff welcomed us warmly and invited us inside.
As one would expect at one of India’s most famous tea estates, we were promptly offered cups of freshly brewed Darjeeling tea while we waited.
There are certainly worse ways to spend a morning.
Before long, Rajan arrived and greeted us like old friends.
What followed was one of the most fascinating conversations of our journey.
Rajan spoke passionately about the history of tea cultivation in Darjeeling and the heritage of his family estate. He explained that his great-grandfather had established the Makaibari Tea Estate in 1859, making it one of the oldest tea estates in India and one of the pioneers of Darjeeling tea production.
As we walked through the estate, he shared stories about the tea industry, the challenges faced by growers, and the unique conditions that give Darjeeling tea its distinctive flavour and aroma.
For tea lovers, it was an education.
For the rest of us, it was still fascinating.
We were shown how tea is evaluated and tasted professionally, learning how different leaves, harvests, and processing methods create subtle variations in flavour.
Until then, most of us thought tea was simply tea.
Rajan quickly demonstrated otherwise.
The tasting session was particularly enjoyable, and before leaving we were treated to several more cups of the estate’s famous tea.
The hospitality was exceptional.
We thanked Rajan and his staff sincerely before beginning our descent back towards Siliguri.
Leaving the cool hills behind, the temperature gradually rose as we made our way down from the Himalayas.
By around 2:30 pm, we arrived back in Siliguri.
After a light meal, thoughts once again turned to our faithful motorhome.
Despite the repairs in Assam, one of the shock absorbers continued to work loose on rough roads.
It was becoming a recurring nuisance that needed a more permanent solution.
Ramesh and I headed into town in search of large washers and additional fittings that might solve the problem once and for all.
After wandering through various workshops and hardware shops for nearly an hour and a half, we eventually found what we needed.
Back at the hotel, it was time for another episode of “Kontiki Workshop.”
Ramesh disappeared into his overalls and assembled his collection of tools.
Together, we crawled underneath the motorhome and set about strengthening the shock absorber mountings.
Meanwhile, Dayal adopted his usual role in such situations.
He sat comfortably watching television and offering the occasional piece of advice from a safe distance.
The repairs took some time, but by evening we were satisfied that the problem had been properly addressed.
At least we hoped so.
With the work complete, we cleaned up, opened a few drinks, and enjoyed a relaxed dinner together.
Tomorrow promised to be another long day behind the wheel as Team Kontiki headed towards one of India’s great cities—Kolkata.
After nearly two months on the road, Mumbai was steadily drawing closer.
But as always, faithful old Kontiki continued to remind us that every mile had to be earned.
Distance travelled: Darjeeling to Siliguri by taxi
Location: Makaibari Tea Estate and Siliguri, West Bengal
Weather: Cool in Darjeeling, warm in Siliguri
Highlights: Visiting the historic Makaibari Tea Estate and learning about Darjeeling tea production
Most memorable moment: Spending time with Rajan Banerjee and tasting some of the world’s finest teas
Vehicle repairs: Reinforced shock absorber mountings with larger washers and fittings
Special thanks: Rajan Banerjee and the staff of Makaibari Tea Estate for their hospitality
Evening activity: Yet another session of DIY motorhome repairs
Mood of the day: Relaxed, educational, and quietly optimistic about the road ahead
Join us tomorrow as Team Kontiki leaves the Himalayan foothills behind and begins the long drive towards Kolkata, one of India’s most historic and fascinating cities, on our epic London-to-Mumbai road journey.
